Day 4: Cows, Climbs & Supercars at the Col
Winding road up to Col d’Aspin, through classic Pyrenees villages and cow-studded hillsides.
At the summit, it was a surreal mix: cyclists prepping for the Tour de France, lazy cows blocking the road, and a convoy of British lads in McLarens and Ferraris. We parked our van between a Porsche and a herd of goats.
Final night at Lac de Payolle — a cooler, pine-scented slice of heaven. We stayed at Aire Campan-Morère, which felt like the true mountain vibe. If we’d had another day: hiking trails and horseback tours were calling.
What We Learned (So You Don’t Have To)
1. Bring Insect Screens.
A couple of our stops were fly central. Leave a door open for ten seconds and it’s like hosting a bug rave. Keeping cool meant keeping doors open — insect screens would’ve saved our sanity.
2. Coolers Need Juice.
Electric coolbox + big EcoFlow battery? Great… as long as you keep driving. Our 12V port wasn’t enough to recharge the EcoFlow. If you’re planning to freecamp the whole way: bring solar.
3. Tiny Vans Are a Personality Test.
My wife (and our baby) slept in the Caddy. Or tried to. Turns out if you’re even mildly claustrophobic, micro-campers can feel less like a cosy nest and more like a wheeled coffin.
Our 10-year-old, however, adored it. He identifies as a cave bear.
Take a moment to reflect on your inner mammal before going tiny.
Final Thoughts
This trip had everything: heatstroke, awe, wild swims, animal encounters, family chaos, mountain magic, and two very good vans that made it all possible.
At the time, it often felt a little too hectic — a constant cycle of checking the route, refreshing the van parking app, cross-referencing opening times with snack schedules, rotating various electronics through the van’s DC output, grocery shopping, dishwashing, filling and emptying water tanks, and swatting flies with increasingly philosophical rage.
But now that we’re home?
All I remember are the good bits:
Capuchins sitting in a row, silently watching my baby daughter like she was the zoo exhibit. Diving off a jetty into a cool lake with my two boys. Reading a good book in a camp chair by lamplight, sipping a cold beer as the day’s heat finally gave up. Cooking simple family meals over a single burner stove in a van that very quickly began to feel like home. We’d do it all again in a heartbeat.
(With insect screens. And solar.)